A Feast for the Senses: Wine & Fondue
A true source of Swiss national pride, cheese fondue becomes even more irresistible when paired with a lovely glass of Chasselas… But what about other white wines?
As lovers of fine food, good wine and, of course, each other, we decided to celebrate Valentine’s Day by taking on a rather ambitious challenge. We wanted to venture beyond our culinary borders, celebrate both our countries of origin and those close to our hearts, rethink a few of our traditions (including putting the gentleman of the house in charge of the cooking!) and add a little touch of elegance to the occasion.
There’s no doubt about it…
Our hearts definitely belong to the Baer family’s fondue, which was nominated at the 2019 World Fondue Championships in Tartegnin, chaired by Michelin-starred chef Philippe Chevrier. The next edition was scheduled for 2023.
Having participated as an amateur jury member in 2017 (and having enjoyed countless fondues over the years!), I can confidently say that this fondue has become our absolute favourite. And so, we decided to have a little fun experimenting with a wine pairing that might prove as imperfect as it was perfect. After all, isn't beauty often found in the little imperfections? Over the years, I have noticed just how differently people perceive the pairing of wine and cheese.
Is it a matter of habit? Personal preference? Individual sensitivity? Or perhaps the way we have been brought up to appreciate wine white versus red?
This beautifully illustrates a quote attributed to Morgan Freeman:
“The biggest mistake we can make is believing that others think the same way we do”
But first, why do we drink white wine with cheese fondue?
Beyond its delicious flavour, white wine plays an important role in the preparation of fondue.
The acidity of the wine influences the structure of the cheese proteins, helping to create that wonderfully smooth, creamy texture we all love. It also affects the way calcium interacts with the proteins. During the meal, the refreshing acidity of white wine provides a delightful contrast to the richness and fat of the melted cheese, making the combination feel lighter and more balanced on the palate.Prefer red wine? No need to worry! Simply choose a light, fruity wine with delicate, silky tannins, such as an elegant Pinot Noir.
A rather ambitious pairing…
As for my own experience, although I usually prefer to respect regional food and wine pairings which often offer a wonderful harmony of flavours this time I decided to venture a little further. After slicing a few pieces of truffle salami, I brought my nose to the first glass of Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot, Les Petits Clos 2019, from Domaine Bachey-Legros. And almost immediately, I began to question my ambitious choice.
What on earth had I been thinking?
The first nose was powerful and intensely aromatic. Yet the pronounced smoky and toasted notes seemed far too dominant for my taste, threatening to overwhelm the delicate balance of the fondue.
On the palate, however, the wine was beautifully balanced, with vibrant, razor-sharp acidity and impressive body. Its texture seemed perfectly suited to the extraordinary creaminess of this rich, characterful fondue.The textures worked beautifully together, and I told myself that, at worst, the aromas might simply cancel each other out.But before decanting, things were looking far from promising. I had genuinely been caught off guard.
I had expected my Chassagne-Montrachet to elevate the dish to another level. Instead, I felt as though the wine was completely overpowering it. A wonderful lesson in humility!
Fortunately, with a little patience, my smile returned. The wine had transformed.
Beneath its magnificent golden-yellow robe, it had gradually opened up, revealing a completely different aromatic expression. Notes of yellow fruits and citrus emerged, beautifully highlighting its lively acidity and the remarkably precise finish that I love so much. Produced from a carefully selected two-hectare vineyard parcel, with vines over 70 years old planted on clay-limestone soils, this Chardonnay displays wonderful complexity and a strong sense of identity. Elegant and refined, it offers remarkable length on the palate, supported by a beautiful mineral structure.
It is worth remembering that, when pairing wine with cheese fondue, the influence of oak should be beautifully integrated and barely perceptible or ideally not noticeable at all as was ultimately the case with this wine.
Challenge successfully accomplished!
Personally, I would much rather enjoy wines that I love and genuinely feel like drinking, even if they don’t perfectly complement my dish, than follow the traditional rules of food and wine pairing and end up drinking a wine that fails to excite me.
After all, if your truth isn’t necessarily someone else’s, where does the pleasure of it all lie?
And you, have you discovered our wine and cheese experiences yet?
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