Meat & Fine Fare: Wine and Fondue
- Angelique Werner
- Aug 11
- 3 min read
A true national pride, made even greater when paired with a good glass of Chasselas… but what about other white wines?
Lovers of fine fare (and fine flesh), we seized the occasion of Valentine’s Day to take on a sizeable challenge: crossing borders, honouring both countries of origin and those of the heart, revisiting our principles (including putting Monsieur behind the stove), and adding a touch of nobility.
It’s undeniable…
Our hearts have most definitely fallen for the Baer family fondue, nominated at the Mondial de la Fondue in Tartegnin in 2019 (chaired by Michelin-starred chef Philippe Chevrier, with the next edition in 2023).
Having taken part as an amateur jury member in 2017 (and considering the number of fondues I’ve eaten over the years), it’s become our preference. We have fun pairing it with matches as perfect as they are imperfect. (Isn’t beauty found precisely in the little flaws?)
Indeed, over many years, I’ve noticed huge differences in perception when it comes to pairing wine and cheese! Is it a question of habit? Preference? Sensitivity? Education (white wine vs. red wine)?
This brings to mind the quote by M. Freeman:
"The biggest mistake we can make is believing that others think the same way we do."
But first — why do we drink white wine with cheese fondue?
Aside from the fact that it tastes better than water, both gustatorily and physically, wine acts on the proteins to make them creamier. Acids also remove calcium. During the meal, the acidity of white wine balances out the fat in the fondue and makes it easier to digest.
Prefer red wine? No problem — choose a light, fruity wine with fine tannins, like a Pinot Noir.
As for my latest experience (even though I usually like to respect the regional pairing, which is often perfect in terms of taste), after slicing a few pieces of truffle salami, I almost regretted my ambitious choice when I first put my nose into a glass of Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, Les Petits Clos 2019 from Domaine Bachey-Legros. I thought, what was I thinking?
The first nose was powerful and intense, but it overwhelmed my palate with smoky, toasted aromas far too dominant for the fondue. On the palate, however, it was very balanced, with sharp acidity and a beautiful volume that married perfectly with the incredible creaminess of this characterful fondue. Textures and flavours came together, and I thought that at worst, the aromas would cancel each other out.
Before decanting, it was far from a sure thing, and I was taken by surprise. I had expected my Chassagne to elevate my dish — a humbling lesson, as I mostly felt I was overpowering it. But with a little patience, I smiled again. Under its magnificent golden-yellow robe, the wine eventually opened up, revealing aromas of yellow fruits and citrus that further enhanced its acidity and the precise finish I love so much.
From a parcel selection of 2 hectares of old vines over 70 years old, planted on clay-limestone soils, this Chardonnay boasts great complexity, strong identity, elegance, length on the palate, and a lovely mineral structure. It’s worth remembering that the oak should be well-integrated and barely (if at all) perceptible — as it is here — to accompany your fondue.
Mission accomplished.
Personally, I prefer drinking wines I love and crave — even if they don’t perfectly pair with my dish — rather than following a “perfect” pairing and drinking a wine that doesn’t excite me.
In the end, if your truth is not the same as someone else’s, where does the notion of pleasure lie?
And have you discovered our wine & cheese experiences?
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